Now that we're safe and sound in our house in Swarthmore, Pennsylvania, I can say it out loud -- it was nuts to go overseas during a global pandemic. In the butcher's window: "Long Live the Pork Belly! Get the Vaccine; Wear the mask!" Yes, when we made our plans a few months ago, Italy's … Continue reading 135. Travel During the Pandemic
Maybe I’m hyper-alert to them, having lost our dear Rocky just a week or so ago. But dogs are everywhere here. Waiting for a table Having a coffee You see them in the restaurants; you see them in the shops. On the door of a restaurant They seem to routinely accompany their owners to work, … Continue reading 134. The Dogs
It finally happened. Always taking photos -- the clouds starting to lift After daily predictions that proved untrue, the rain finally began. And rain it did, in violent bursts interspersed with glimpses of bright sun, as if to lure us outside only to be drenched. But when it was finally done, it was as if … Continue reading 133. After the Tempest
The app promised rain. 24 hours of it. 100% chance. I have to admit, I was a little bit relieved. The original impetus of this trip was to try out the newly-constructed bike path around Lake Garda, slated to be completed in 2021. When COVID delays caused it to be years behind schedule, we decided … Continue reading 132. On the Bike
I am not a lake person. As far as I’m concerned, any large body of water that isn’t salty, wavy and vaguely smelling of sewage at low tide is wasting my time. But after a day spent at Lago di Garda, I might need to change my tune. Sunrise I am an early-morning runner, which … Continue reading 131. At the lake
Brave? Nuts? You tell me. Cappuccino at the airport, my arrival ritual But we’re here, in Bell’Italia. And bella it is. We are in the Umbrian hilltop town of Orvieto. The vistas are spectacular. The shops are filled with ceramics and olive oil and books (yes, books. We have passed three bookstores in this little … Continue reading 130. We Made It
I pulled the trigger. After a year and a half of watching the COVID situation in Italy, as heart-rending there as anywhere, I decided the time was now, and I booked a flight to Rome in July. Every day, I carefully check the situation. While the EU was slow getting started with vaccinations, they are … Continue reading 129. Heading Over
In my mind, it's the most iconic image of Italy. No, not the Coliseum, or a Venice gondolier, or the statue of David. To me, the most iconic image is people sitting around the table, often in a beautiful setting with rolling hills, blue sea, or vineyards in the background, eating simple, but great food … Continue reading 128. Around the Table
I get a little zing whenever Anthony Fauci comes on the TV. I stop everything to listen. Sure, he's one of the true greats of our time, a savior helping us emerge from not one, but two epidemics -- AIDS and COVID -- a genius both scientifically and in his ability to communicate calmly, clearly … Continue reading 127. My Tribe
Fully vaccinated, I had the nearly forgotten pleasure of packing my bags and heading to the airport for a weekend trip to visit my daughter Lizy in Chicago. In addition to being where my daughter and her husband now live, Chicago is a place with great personal significance for me, as my mother grew up … Continue reading 126. Roots Tour
Gigi's Italia 