What does it take to be the only three-star Michelin restaurant in Rome? In a city where pretty much all food, everywhere, both humble and exalted, is fabulous? Maria and I headed to the ten-course tasting menu at La Pergola, the restaurant at the top of the Rome Cavalieri Hotel, to find out.Judging from our … Continue reading 73. Michelin 3 Stars
Or I should say, the other half of the top 1%. The reason I ended up coming to Rome at an oddball time is that my daughter Maria, an editor and writer at Food and Wine magazine, was coming to check out the five-star Rome Cavalieri Hotel, and invited me to tag along.It turns out … Continue reading 72. How the Other Half Lives
Graffiti, which comes from the Italian word for "scratched," dates back before Pompeii, and is a feature of many ancient cultures, including the Greeks and the Egyptians.That's no excuse.In what is arguably the most beautiful country in the world, it sometimes seems that every square inch is covered with someone's scrawl. I know there is … Continue reading 71. Graffiti
When you turn 2772 years old, you don't let the day pass unnoticed. So Rome celebrated its 2772nd birthday this weekend with its usual parade, reenactments, and fireworks. You may recall that Rome, according to legend, was founded in about 750 BCE by Romulus, who, along with his twin brother Remus, was suckled by a … Continue reading 70. Happy Birthday, Roma
When something occurs only once every 300 years, and I happen to be in the neighborhood, I'm in. Maria alerted me to a CNN article saying that, for a few weeks only, the Vatican had removed the protective wooden planks covering the stairs that Jesus climbed, and actually bled on, on his way to the … Continue reading 69. Holy Stairs
When in Rome ... on Easter, the obvious thing to do is head to the Mother Ship. It's almost too obvious. But there I was today, with 80,000 other tourists and locals, for the Easter Mass in St. Peter's Square. I am a world-class stander. The instructions "Get there early" don't scare me a bit. … Continue reading 68. The Mother Ship
I'm a hard-core runner. Not in terms of distance or speed, but every-day-ness. And my need to do it every day is a special gift when I'm traveling. There's no better way to get the lay of the land, and have the joy of watching a place come to life and start its day.This morning, … Continue reading 67. Easter Morning Run
Here are the three things my father told me about Easter in Gaeta, Italy: 1. At 11 a.m. on Easter Saturday, the worms come out of the cream puffs. I can only surmise that this was a little fib told to keep children from swiping the special Easter pastry too soon. Not to generalize about … Continue reading 66. Pasqua
I saw a sign a few weeks ago in a South Philly bakery for an upcoming Red Gravy Cook-Off to benefit the East Passyunk Community Organization. "We're in," I said to Ben, my good sport husband. And sure enough, two weeks later, we were there, with our friends Nanette and Rick. The event was held … Continue reading 65. Pastabilities
Really, New York Times? Two full pages? The occasion of the assassination of Mafia boss John Calli was irresistible to the New York Times, which printed a two-page detailed listing of mob killings going back to Albert Anatastia in 1957, with all of the particulars of each of the "whacks." In the general culture, and … Continue reading 64. The Mob
Gigi's Italia 