Stopping for an espressino every morning after my run, the only woman in the bar. "My" barista would prepare my coffee and glass of acqua frizzante as soon as I walked in. Does that make me a regular? Man beautifully singing "What a wonderful world" in accented English at a karaoke night at a local … Continue reading 33. I will never forget…
I think Italy is the most beautiful place in the world. It might not have the show-offy wow factor of the American West, or the "OMG was that a kangaroo?" of Australia. But the sea, the hills, the countryside are just right. The sea at San Teodoro, Basilicata: The farms: The Amalfi Coast: The ravine … Continue reading 32. The Vistas
Italians are known for their close-knit extended families. And surely our Messors workshop was living proof of that. Tonio' wife Jennifer Bell, a painter and former actress and set designer, handled most of the arrangements and administrative details, while also making sure that breakfast was on the table by 7:30. Nine-year-old August made charming conversation … Continue reading 31. Family Values
Tonio, who has harvested olives on his family's land every year since he was five, led us through an olive oil tasting (after first serenading us, including his musical signature - a verse of just whistling.) We learned that 75% of olive oil, especially that sold in supermarkets, is fraudulent, and that most of the … Continue reading 30. Olive oil
Of course, all Americans are familiar with Italian food, to the point where we consider things like pizza part of our own native cuisine. But Italians simply wouldn't tolerate Italian food in the way we think of and eat it. Their food, in even the humblest trattoria or beach-side stand, is fresh, local, seasonal, particular … Continue reading 29. Mangia!
I have been on a forty-eight-year quest to learn Italian. Putting aside the fact that I grew up with a native speaker that I never took advantage of, I started by taking two full years in college. Since then, I have done Rosetta Stone, Duolingo, Mango, an on-line intensive college Italian course (twice), taken adult … Continue reading 28. Language Lab
Men playing cards. Women (and a few daring male souls) doing a Zumba-lite-style exercise class.
Our work yesterday was at Fornello, a 12th-century cave church, where our job was to carefully scrape the salt deposits from the ancient frescoes. We were working so close-up that one of my colleagues had to point out to me that I had uncovered a painting of a bird! I was pleased to make progress … Continue reading 26. I found a bird!
Ever have the urge to buy your unmentionables in full view of your friends and neighbors? Going bathing suit shopping not difficult enough? Then move to Italy, where nearly every town has its weekly market, with outdoor vendors selling everything from shoes to curtains to men's suits. We enjoy market day so much that Ben … Continue reading 25. Market Day
The passeggiata is a great Italian tradition throughout the entire country in which everyone takes to the streets at the end of the day to chat with friends, eat gelato, seen and be seen. But is it truly everyone? In Gravina I've noticed that the passeggiata is nearly entirely male. I took photos of nearly … Continue reading 24. Boys’ Town
Gigi's Italia 